03.3200.3600 is a fan favorite because it shares so many characteristics with the original, including a 38-mm case and tricolor subdial design. For example, fans of the A386 should check out watches in the Chronomaster Original collection. The A385 almost seems like a bargain in comparison at just under 8,800 USD.įor a number of years now, Zenith has offered a range of retro and revival models that hark back to the designs of the very first El Primero watches. An A384 in good condition costs around 14,500 USD. The dial of the A385, on the other hand, features a radial color gradient ranging from light beige to brown with contrasting white subdials. The dial of the A384 is a typical panda layout, i.e., white background with black subdials. Both have a tonneau-shaped case with accentuated edges. The A384 and its sibling, the A385, look markedly different than the A386. Well-maintained examples of this watch can be purchased on Chrono24 starting at 19,000 USD. A red chronograph hand adds the perfect amount of color to the dial, and the round, 38-mm stainless steel case gives the watch a classic overall look. The 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock is blue, the 12-hour counter at 6 is dark gray, and the small seconds at 9 has a light gray hue. The A386 is considered by many to be the archetypal Zenith chronograph thanks to its iconic dial design with three subdials, each in a different color. The first Zenith timepieces to feature the then-groundbreaking El Primero caliber were the references A384, A385, and A386. The latter is available on Chrono24 starting around 4,600 USD, while the Rolex demands closer to 38,000 USD. Some popular examples include the Rolex Daytona ref. Watches powered by the El Primero but not made by Zenith are also coveted among collectors. Vintage refs like the A384 and A386 are particularly popular with collectors, and will set you back between 14,000 USD and 19,000 USD, depending on the exact model and condition. These watches demand between 60,500 USD and 105,000 USD.

You'll find watches with a double tourbillon, Gravity Control, or fusee at the upper end of the price range. Set aside at least 2,000 USD more if you want to purchase a model with the state-of-the-art El Primero 21 caliber. Expect to see prices around 8,200 USD for a Chronomaster Original with the classic tricolor dial. Prices for watches from current collections, such as the Chronomaster Open with a partially skeletonized dial, start closer to 7,000 USD. For this price, you can find well-maintained models from the 1990s and early 2000s. Zenith chronographs outfitted with an El Primero caliber are available starting at 2,500 USD on Chrono24. Here, the balance and escapement are part of a gyroscopic regulating module that continuously realigns itself to counteract the effects of gravity.ĭefy Double Tourbillon / 40.9000.9020/78.R582Īcademy Christophe Colomb Equation of Time / 18.2220.8808/01.C631ĭefy Fusee Tourbillon / 10.9000.4805/78.R916Ĭhronomaster Tourbillon / 65.2050.4035/91.C714 Zenith's watchmaking brilliance extends to movements with so-called Gravity Control. The double tourbillon version relies on a tourbillon each for the time display and chronograph function, while the El Primero Fusee with a tourbillon uses a fusee and chain mechanism to modulate the force of the mainspring. Other highlights include El Primero movements with a double tourbillon or fusee. The latter boasts an incredible frequency of 50 Hz, which allows timing to 1/100th of a second. It is fitted with two oscillation/escapement systems – one for the time display, which runs at 5 Hz, and another for the chronograph. The El Primero 21, introduced in 2017 and found in some watches in the Defy line, increases the movement's already legendary precision by a factor of ten. Today, the El Primero powers various watches in the, Defy, and Pilot series. In comparison, the Valjoux 7750 from ETA only has a power reserve of around 44 hours. Despite its frequency, the caliber has a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. Thanks to an unusually high balance frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz), the movement can measure 1/10th of a second – a feat that remains a rarity in mechanical chronographs to this day. The El Primero earned the brand with the star logo its place in horological history and has since become Zenith's showpiece. The movement was released in 1969 and is considered the first automatic chronograph movement ever produced. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Zenith is inseparable from their famous chronograph caliber, the El Primero, which means 'the first' in Spanish.

Zenith el primero chronograph